01 : Introduction

Some of the following chapters have a link to an on-line photo album. You can click on that to get extra photos or to run a slideshow.

02 : New in the area?

La Tuilerie de Chazelle is deep in the heart of the rolling landscape of South Burgundy. This area is famous for its magnificent Romanesque churches along with numerous towns and villages of unrivalled beauty and not least for its world famous vineyards.
The abundance of Romanesque churches in the area is due, to a large extent, to its proximity to Cluny, where a rich and powerful abbey once was. A visit to what remains of the abbey is a must.

Saturday service at Taizé - picture courtesy of A. Waidelich

The ecumenical monastic community of Taizé is just under 2 miles from here. Taizé attracts young people from around the world and is famous for its "Taizé Songs" (a modern version of Gregorian chants). A little further away is the first Tibetan Buddhist monastery in Europe, the Temple of the Thousand Buddhas (Kagyu Ling) at La Boulaye, well worth the experience.

Over and above all else, Burgundy is well known for its fine food and great wines. Good living has been made into an art-form here. You can enjoy the wine tasting available in the local "caves" that you discover on your travels or you can follow the numerous "wine trails" (Côte d'Or, Côte Chalonnaise and Mâconnais & Beaujolais) that take you past the best and most famous houses of the region.

Wine tasting in the Cave Cooperative of Saint-Gengoux-le-National

For walkers and cyclists this area is ideal. There are many well laid out routes to walk or cycle, of varying levels of difficulty, including the Voie Verte which is a flat, safe cycle path that runs the length of South Burgundy on an old railway track with extensions on canal tow-paths.

It is impossible to give information on everything there is to see around here, but for those who want more information than this small space allows, you can scroll down the page or click on a Label on the right hand side of this article for more details on certain topics like things to see in and around Cormatin or day trips you can make from here, etc.

03 : In and Around Cormatin (1)

Cormatin itself has a very fine example of a château with extensive gardens, you can wander around and imagine yourself as one of the Ducs de Bourgogne!

Boudoir in the Château de Cormatin

Around Cormatin there are many fine examples of Romanesque villages where you can stroll along the cobbled streets, take in the village life at a kerb side café, enjoy the bustle of market day and absorb the peace and tranquillity of the exquisite Romanesque churches. A superb example of Romanesque architecture can be seen in Chapaize, and between Chapaize and Tournus, perched on top of a hill,
you will find the Mediaeval village of Brancion with its Romanesque church with frescos and its mediaeval castle dominating the surrounding area.

Buddhist monk working on a mandala - La Boulaye

Religion has seeped into the fabric of the region and the ecumenical Christian community of Taizé is just around the corner from La Tuilerie (just under 2 miles walking or 3 miles by car). Taizé attracts young people from around the world and is famous for its "Taizé Songs" (a modern version of Gregorian chants). The church services at Taizé are also worth a visit just to absorb the atmosphere that this unique place exudes.

Cluny, the "light of the world", where the largest church in Christendom was built is just 10 minutes away by car. A tour of this church is a must. Although there is virtually nothing left of the vast original abbey, the tour takes you through where the church stood and allows you to experience the grandeur and awe of the original magnificent monument built to the glory of God.

Grand National - Cluny

Cluny is not only famous for its religious roots, but also for its horses. One of the National Studs (Haras) was installed here in Napoleon’s time and stands on land that was part of the abbey. You can take a tour around the Haras, with at least one tour per day being given in English. There is a horse racing track where regular meetings are held, flat racing, harness trotting and steeple chasing all take place there. Last but not least there is the Equivallée, which is becoming one of the important horse show jumping venues in France.

Tournus on the Saône

The nearby town of Tournus is worth a visit with its abbey church and Hôtel Dieu, however, this ancient hospital is nothing like as spectacular as the one in Beaune.

If you are feeling a bit adventurous, why not visit the caves at Blanot or Azé and see the marvels of nature in the underground caverns. Blanot is not for the claustrophobic or for people with vertigo, but Azé is a relatively gentle stroll.

Click here for some more pictures of touristic highlights around Cormatin.

04 : Other Things to See In and Around Cormatin (2)

Apart from the many Romanesque churches, there is more to see in this part of Burgundy. Again this is only a little insight into what there is to see, for more information you can consult one of the many tourist guides of this area.

Cormatin itself has a lovely Renaissance château (1605) which is privately owned, but part of which can be seen during a guided tour. The gardens on the other hand are totally open to the public and are quite extensive and well worth a visit.

The town of Saint-Gengoux-le-National (a tongue twister for most foreigners!) has a very nice small medeival centre where there is a market every other week all year round and in the summer they have evening markets as well where local produce and local crafts are sold.

There is the beautiful medieval town of Brancion, perched on top of a hill which has recently been completely renovated. It features a fortified (non-inhabitable) castle and a covered market. From the open area in front of the church, you are afforded spectacular views over the Grosne valley.

For castles in a better state of repair, Berzé-le-Châtel and Pierreclos are worth a visit. The former can be visited via a guided tour which takes you around the outside of the castle explaining how the defences worked. One or two small rooms can be visited, but as the castle is lived in the majority cannot be seen. Having said that it is one of the most interesting tours I have taken. The visit to Pierreclos castle includes a wine tasting at the end and is also well worth the entry money.

Wine is of course inextricably linked with Bugundy. Cormatin is just in between the Mâconnais and the Côte Chalonaise. The Côte d’Or and the Beaujolais are also very close and there are a number of “wine routes” you can take which will bring you past the most prestigious wine growers where you can always pop in for a tasting. Very close to us there is a good winemaker in Bray and Viré and Azé turn out a well respected bottle.
Click here for a few pictures of touristic highlights in the area.

The gardens of the Château de Cormatin

A number of places like Cluny and Tournus have a Hôtel-Dieu, but the most spectacular (from 1443) can be found in Beaune (although not close to Cormatin certainly worth a day trip). These buildings were built as hospitals and run by nuns financed by wealthy benefactors. The roofs of the Hôtel-Dieu in Beaune, which can only be seen when you enter the main courtyard, are tiled with coloured glazed tiles and are a feast for your eyes. But it is not only the outside of these buildings that is worth a look, the various rooms have been restored to their original state complete with a little chapel, pharmacy, kitchen and the wards themselves. The hospital was still in use until 1971 when new hospital buildings were built. Finally there is a polyptych "The last judgement" by the Flemish artist Rogier van der Weyden, the small details of which can be viewed through a travelling magnifying glass if it is not too busy and if you ask the person in charge very nicely!

05 : Day Trips

Whilst there is more than enough to do in the immediate surroundings, there are a number of places that are worth taking a day trip for.

Romanesque frescoes - Berzé-la-Ville

The Mâconnais is well worth visiting for its Romanesque architecture, the many exquisite châteaux and the beautiful landscape.

A walk up the Roche de Solutré, a rock formation not far from Mâcon, is well worth it for the spectacular views over the surrounding vineyards. There is a museum at the bottom of the rock that is dedicated to the prehistory of the area.

For Romanesque art, there are some very special frescos round here though, the best can be found in the Chapelle des Moines in the village of Berzé-la-Ville, just down the road from Berzé-le-Châtel with its impressively complete mediaeval castle linked to Cluny by tunnels and with stunning views in all directions.
On the subject of castles, Pierreclos has a lovely château with wine tasting in the cellars after the tour.

Pierreclos

Moving into the Brionnais you will find Paray-le-Monial, a place of pilgrimage, where you can see the Romanesque basilica, a "miniature" version of the Cluny abbey church which is still standing and is well worth a visit. Just round the corner from the basilica is the impressive Renaissance Hôtel de Ville. In other places in the Brionnais there are also excellent examples of Romanesque churches to be seen, for example in Semur-en-Brionnais and Anzy-le-Duc.

La Boulaye

In the Morvan there is the first Tibetan Buddhist monastery built in Europe, the Temple of the Thousand Buddhas, Paldenshangpa (Kagyu Ling) at La Boulaye. Paldenshangpa is in harmony with, but strangely in contrast to, the green rolling hills of the Burgundy landscape. Hundreds of Buddhists come to La Boulaye every year to take part in the many ceremonies and many other people come just to experience and take part in a Buddhist service. There is also a Serbian-orthodox monastery in Uchon in the Morvan. The monks make religious icons for sale and at certain times of the day you can visit the beautifully painted refectory and other parts of the monastery.

The Last Judgement - Beaune

When mentioning the Côte d’Or most people think only of its outstanding wines (like Nuits-Saint-Georges) or they think of Dijon, but Beaune is also very well worth a visit. Give yourself the time to wander around the streets of Beaune and visit the stunning Hôtel-Dieu (which was a working hospital until 1971), with its spectacular roofs of coloured tiles which are only visible when you get into the internal courtyard. Also within the hospital complex is the famous altar piece "The last judgement" by the Flemish artist Rogier van der Weyden, that attracts tourists from around the world. In Beaune there are a number of small museums that are worth a look, most notably the wine museum telling you all about wine from grafting on to the vine to producing the finished article.

Wine Tasting - Beaune

Don’t forget to visit one of the wine cellars (caves) in the town centre, most notably the Marché aux Vins , in the former church of the Cordeliers close to the Hôtel-Dieu, where for a few Euros you can not only visit the cave but you can also taste some of the most expensive wines in Burgundy if not in the world.

06 : Big Towns

Dijon, the home of mustard, has more to offer than just the hot stuff, it is well worth a full-daytrip.

Sarcophagi - Dijon

Dijon was one of the residences of the Dukes of Bourgogne. The Musée des Beaux Arts has been installed in the magnificent Dukes' palace. The museum houses a superb collection of paintings and sculptures from the Middle Ages. The number of superbly carved sarcophagi of various Dukes are one of the highlights of a visit to the palace. Apart from the palace, there are numerous very interesting churches to visit along with the Gothic cathedral of Saint Bénigne being one of the highlights. As you walk through the streets, around every corner you will find something different, there are many old buildings with stunning facades but don’t forget to look up at the roofs many of which are covered in beautifully coloured glazed tiles.
A day in Dijon would not be complete without buying yourself some pots of the real stuff, available in many flavours.

Buying Mustard at Maille's - Dijon

The mustard with blackcurrant is quite something else! Apart from mustard, Dijon is the culinary capital of Burgundy; what better way to complete your day out than to sample what one of the many excellent restaurants has to offer.

In the département of Rhône, where the Rhône and the Saône rivers come together, is the large city of Lyon. Lyon was once the silk centre of Europe. La Croix-Rousse is the district where this industry flourished and where the silk workers (Canuts) lived and worked. In the old city (Vieux Lyon) you will find small hidden alleyways (traboules) between and within the houses; when you find out how the system works, you will spend all morning going up and down these secret passages enjoying the fun of discovering where you reappear on the other side.

Place Bellecour - Lyon

Their real intention was to enable the long heavy rolls of silk to be transported to different areas of the city by the quickest route whilst of course keeping them dry. For those who want to window shop, the Rue de la République on Presqu’île (the nineteenth century business centre of Lyon) is the place to be. The Musée des Beaux Arts, which next to its immense collection of paintings from around Europe has 35 famous impressionist and modern paintings, is also in the same district.

Roman Theatre - Lyon

Not to be missed is a visit up the Fourvière hill in the funicular railway, or for the fitness fanatics via the very long staircase, to visit the basilica and take in the spectacular views over Lyon. On top of the hill you can also see the very well preserved Roman remains of two theatres built when Lyon was called Lugdunum. Lyon is also well known for its wall paintings. In a number of places throughout the city you will find whole buildings covered in frescos. Some of these painting are more than life size!

Mur des Canuts - Lyon

07 : Food , Wine and Cultural Activities

Over and above all else, Burgundy is known for its food and wine.

Escargots

Good living has been made into an art-form here. You can enjoy the wine tasting available in the local "caves" that you discover on your travels or you can follow the numerous "wine trails" (Côte d'Or, Côte Chalonaise and Mâconnais and Beaujolais) that take you past the best and most famous houses of the region. Lunch and dinner are essential parts of the daily ritual in France and particularly here in Burgundy. These events should be taken very seriously and are to be enjoyed to the full. So why not be like the locals, sit down, chill out and take the time to savour your meal. Whether you sit on the terrace of the local brasserie or you experience the full silver service of some of the best restaurants in France, each meal will be a real treat.

Pavé de boeuf

For that special dinner, you can choose from one of the many highly rated restaurants within reach of La Tuilerie.

But you don't have to go home kilos heavier; the great outdoors of Burgundy is ideal for pursuing a wide range of sporting and leisure activities and is also perfect for nature lovers.
" La Voie Verte", translated as "the green trail", passes within yards of La Tuilerie and runs the length of South Burgundy. This path used to be in part an old railway line and it is now used by cyclists, skaters and walkers, and takes you easily from one delightful village to the next in perfect safety. Just to the north of here, the Voie Verte runs along the tow paths of the Canal du Centre, making for very flat and easy travelling.

Voie Verte and Balade Verte

You could of course just walk around the local lanes or in the forest across the road from La Tuilerie and breath in the pure air, enjoying the wildlife along the way. Organised walks (randonnées) are held on Sundays throughout the year, where you are given a route to follow and you can enjoy refreshments along the way, or you can follow the number of Balades Vertes (green strolls) that have recently been laid out in the area, letting you enjoy a walk without getting lost! One of the walks goes almost past the front door here.

Emmanuel Rossfelder during Guitares en Cormatinois - Chazelle

Had enough of nature and want to do something cultural? There are many local festivals going on all year round. All summer long there are classical concerts given in the beautiful Romanesque church in Chapaize organised by “Chapaize Culture”. In Cormatin and surrounding villages there is the yearly festival “Guitares en Cormatinois”. This series of concerts is not only classical guitar music but also includes lighter concerts as well as folk music. We keep up to date with all the latest events so we can tell you what's on and where during your stay. The real way to experience France is to do as the French do, visit these festivals, visit the markets and poke around in the local brocante.

Marché aux puces - Flagy

You can even try and find that essential souvenir to bring a little bit of Burgundy home with you.

On the internet some interesting videos (in French) can be found:  "La Route des Vins - Bourgogne" (50 minutes) and "Le vignoble de Bourgogne vu du ciel" (13 minutes).